Day 7

The sky was cast over with cloud when we checked out from the hotel, which was good because I found that my face and neck were slightly burned. We went to the train station to depart for our three hour journey northwest to Nagasaki. I grabbed a bento box at the station for breakfast. It was the first bad meal i've had in Japan. The tempura type affair was kind of chewy, but the rice balls were fine. Compared to all the other meals I've had so far, however, it was a travesty.

I'm sure that Saigo Takamori would be proud that his face is on this pair of chopsticks.

These train journeys have given me much time to think, to read, to write, and to observe. The Murakami book I'm reading is enjoyable, but not (yet) a masterpiece like that of MItchell's number9dream. Still, it's particularly rewarding to read the vivid descriptions of the plains and mountains of Japan while watching them fly past outside my window. More importantly I have had time to reflect upon the impression of Japanese culture and society I have formed as the first week of this venture draws to its conclusion. Though I am just a visitor here, and my perceptions are likely warped, I believe I have observed the edges of a number of laudable cultural qualities, and a few rather more harmful ones.

The apparent politeness and respect expressed by the staff of shops, restaurants, travel services, and just about any customer service oriented commercial enterprise, is very much to the credit of the nation. The casual disregard displayed by the customers, and my own logical inference, however seem to indicate that the expression of politeness is a mandatory aspect of their work rather than a heartfelt gesture. Nonetheless, the simple repeated acts and words of kindness must serve to reinforce this behaviour in life outside work I imagine. And while the general public have been mostly kind, I suspect this behaviour is more built on social etiquette than considered goodness of spirit. For example when asking an elderly lady for directions to the first hostel in Tokyo, her immediate response was 'i don't know you!', and then she kindly directed us to our destination.

On a related note the depth of bow performed by employees, and the general public, seem to imply a degree of intended politeness. A slight and quick nod, from the neck, seems to convey a perfunctory tone of thanks, while most restautanteers will go out of their way when you leave to stand to your side and bow slightly and slowly from the hips and lower back (which conveys a much deeper sense of gratitude and humility). Despite my first encounter, the elderly members of public have generally seemed to be slightly more polite; sometimes bowing slightly to us in passing, even in a city, or touting a slow 'gomenesai' and waving their right hand (fingers facing forwards) to indicate that they're squeezing past.

Whether meant sincerely or simply a requirement of the job, I fail to see how such directly polite behaviour could be anything but beneficial, and is probably something English citizens should learn to appreciate.

Deeper societal problems exist, I have learned from various sources, in the form of the frequent visits of white-coller workers to izakayas (kind of like bars) and hostess bars (places where men spend money to have women stroke their ego, and only their ego). I'm not convinced there's anything inherently wrong with either of these establishments, but it is apparently common for white-collar workers to regularly and habitually use these services. The first can damage existing relationships (i.e. drunkards, or if a father is almost never at home with his family), and the second could damage men's expectations of their relationships. Likewise the expectations of women are in jeopardy from the endless stream of tv advertisements which seem to imply if they just buy the perfect dress and get married that life will be okay (the bridal shops are everywhere).

Another quality of the culture is the strong emphasis placed on conformity. Signs are plastered everywhere, indicating what you may not do, and almost no-one crosses the road until they see the green man (even if there are no cars and they subsequently sprint because they're late). This is a quality which provides space for behaviors such as the extreme politeness I've witnessed, but the same quality is one which inherently stifles innovation. The idea of entrepreneurial spirit seemed to be much hyped in the political and social consciousness of England when I left, and while I am inclined to dismiss such politicking as a ruse to distract from economic troubles there is no doubt that some entrepreneurs are needed in a society, especially as national boundaries shrink in the shadow of a global internet. A small example can be seen in the myriad, nearly identical, box shaped cars that populate the Japanese roads (Ed is on a mission to photograph every type of car in Japan, claiming that there's probably only about ten anyway). Perhaps the younger generation are slightly less polite because they are being raised in this era of free social media which nurtures self expression and allows a person to 'belong' to a virtual and global community thus diminishing the need for geographic societal conformity. Ask yourself, how many of your neighbours do you know the names of?

But I'm easily consumed by such thoughts and I'm supposed to be describing the rolling hillsides, bamboo trees, and marshlands of Kyushu that flash by. Every scrap of flatland outside of the city is worked into paddy fields or farms of some description. Urban regions sporadically dot my windowscape, but do not seem to impose so harshly upon nature as they do further east. The old, wooden houses look almost like small temples, and a few are nearly as ornate. Occasionally piles of crumpled buildings, or demolished houses catch my eye. I guess the people are less affluent in Kyushu.

Anyway we arrived at Nagasaki around 3pm and headed out to the main street. Walking south alongside cars, trams, and buses, towards our hostel. This city gives a good first impression: active but not oppressive. After a few minutes walk we saw a sign for our hostel 'Casa Noda' by a stairwell. Dragging our luggage up two cramped flights of stairs we got to the communal room and reception. Like most of the hostels I've been to it has an extremely homely atmosphere; people lounging on sofas reading, a hammock beside them unused. Around the corner a table is covered with leaflets and breakfast materials; a liberal spread of knickknacks is thrown across the walls.

We dragged our luggage up two further flights of stairs to our rooms and got acquainted with our surroundings. Pretty nice. The view out of the windows on the left side across the bay is quite something. Here's a night time shot of it for your viewing pleasure.

View from my hostel room

Additionally I was relieved to find that the toilet room (separate from the shower room) contained a super-duper toilet sink:

Thank goodness there's a toilet-sink

But we're not here to admire the accommodation, so we get showered and throw on some new clothes before heading out the door. On the way down I make a point of asking the owner about the local cuisine. He suggests 'Champon' which is kind of like a pork, seafood, and vegetable noodle broth. I would come to find that Nagasaki is rather influenced by Chinese culture, which is heavily involved in the origins of this dish.

We headed south towards a chain restaurant called "Ringer hut" (think pizza hut but for Champon). Anyway it turns out Champon gets served with gyoza a lot. Also this Ringer hut lets you upgrade your Nagasaki Champon from 200g of noodles to 300 or 400g for free, just for asking :D. Arigato gozaimashita. I was especially pleased because two of the sauces available were Soy sauce and Sesame sauce. It turns out that when I had the kurobuta previously it was served with wonderfully light and sweet Sesame sauce (which contains Soy sauce as an ingredient). Anyway this is what it all looked like!

Champon with gyoza (travel blog?? no no no, this is a food blog)

Ed had something which was not the specialty of the region, and thus was punished for his foolishness. He described his slightly glutinous copy of Champon as "less than inspiring". Not to worry, there's always tomorrow!

So after refueling we set off for a nearby point of interest 'Sofukuji temple'. We boarded the nearest tram and headed east. Disembarking at the last terminal the tram driver received our coins in his gloved hand and gave us a very quick 'arigato gozaimashita', perhaps the most commonly heard phrase over the course of the last week.

As usual, after heading in what appeared to be the right direction we found ourselves somewhere other than Sofukuji temple. It was a gorgeous and grand Shinto shrine, however, so we took a look around. Heading around the corner and stepping onto the grass i noticed something vaguely hosepipe shaped in my lower peripheral vision and dismissed the information. Milliseconds later I was stunned as the hosepipe (snake) slithered away and over the edge of the nearby wall. After a second I recovered from my shock 'probably just a grass snake'. Anyway we investigated the rather personal looking, but very large, shrine before heading back down and out.

Another pretty Shinto shrine.

Arriving shortly afterwards at Sofukuji temple the place was similarly impressive, perhaps a little more grand, and of Chinese design (and build).

It seems the Chinese Gods are every bit as fierce as the Japanese ones

After reading the few signs in English, and taking our fill of photographs we headed north again towards Kofukuji temple. Alas, we did not ever make it to Kofukuji, getting lost once again. Instead we found yet another beautiful Shrine and, adjacent to it, a large cemetery.

This place is kind of large

This place is really large!

Wait! where the hell are we?

Yup, we got lost inside the cemetery. But in our defense it was enormous. It wasn't so bad either because the view was Incredible. see!

Nagasaki from the cemetery

Ed pointed out that the contrast between the old shrine and the new city is "kind of like Japan in a nutshell". Perhaps a bit strong, but a very valid point. Time after time we have seen examples of old and new juxtaposed: concrete hotels made to look like temples, huge parking lots directly blocking the view from a shrine, and Shinto priests using mobile phones are not particularly rare sights.

Anyway, we eventually found our way out (after hopping water channels and trespassing through a school yard) and headed back to the hostel. Other than a quick trip to the wharf to check out the night time view that's been it for today.

Tomorrow we go to the Nagasaki Peace Park and the Atomic Bomb Museum.

Thanks for reading!

k

P.S.

For those grammar/syntax bullies out there: I started a paragraph with a 'But', and used the singular impersonal 'their'. Deal with it.