Day 12

Today was the day of our big hike. We got up early and headed out for Jison-in temple. On the way out the elderly lady that looks after Nakagawa Ryokan warned us of the cold at Koyasan, but we had packed extra clothes for that.

After 15 minutes walking along roadsides we reached Jison-in temple and the start of the Choushi-michi (stone marker path road). A choushi is a stone pillar which is used to mark distances, and they are evenly spaced each by one cho (about 109 metres). The Choushi-michi has 180 stone markers leading the way up to the Daimon (main gate) at the entrance to Koyasan. This path was is that supposedly walked by the Kukai, the founder of the esoteric Buddhist sect known as Shingon Buddhism. We decided this 22km hike (which is over 800 metres above sea level) would make seeing Koyasan itself more worthwhile.

One of the many stone markers along the path

So we began our path, with steps. The steps were followed by concrete paths and dirt tracks between orchards. The initial ascent was steep. Very steep. Soon we were treated to marvelous views of Kudayama and the surrounding lands. After 20 cho we stop to have breakfast. Mine was half a packet of nuts, and the salt was exaclty what I needed to replenish already missing salts. Although only having travelled 20 cho, the ascent was so steep, we were sure we must be 400 meters up. By 40 cho we were ready for another short break and the rest of breakfast. We found this stopping point:

Looks like a good spot for a quick break

And this was the view:

Yup, not a bad spot at all

By this point we had left the orchards behind and had entered the forested paths. An endless stream of mathematically ideally placed trees were strewn across the sides of the path, and the ground had turned to broken rock and soil. The air started to get heavy with mist and a chill began to seep under my skin. We put on our hoodies and marched onwards.

By 60 cho we were getting pretty tired, but were surprised to find that the ground had started to even out somewhat, even giving downhill sections. This seemed to be the section where we march along the apex of the ridge between two hilltops. Along the way we were overtaken by two pairs of runners. We would later encounter them on their way back down.

the following 40 cho were fairly straight-forward on relatively flat ground. When we had passed two thirds of the trail we found a tea shop, serving green tea and mochi (a japanese sweet). We took a most welcome break for 10 minutes. It had taken us 4 hours so far. We were on schedule.

We continued on up a steeper section and the ground continued to get more sodden. At one point we passed a cacophony of frogs and I took the opportunity to record the sound. Working our way past several group tours (some groups walk the final third of the path), we carried on though we were sick of marching. The final 30 cho arrived and we pushed up the tempo. 20. not far now. The final ten cho and the ascent ramped up steeper than ever. Each step was arduous. 6 remaining cho. I had miscounted. We had arrived; this is how i knew.

The Daimon gate which marks the entrance to Koyasan

We made our way into Koyasan town proper. The place is literally full of temples and shrines. We eventually found our Shukubo (temple lodgings), Fukuchi-in:

Inside Fukuchi-in's  main gate

The place was enormous. We checked in and received a tour of the premesis. Polished wooden floors creaked under my slippers as we passed by beautifully a painted partition and samurai armour behind glass. But the temple is also a bizarre mix of old and new: it is a well maintained temple with large tatami rooms and rock gardens, but also vending machines and a gift shop. Green exit signs mark the ceilings of corridors with paper thin walls.

We were led to our room. Smaller than that of our previous stay, the room was of a very similar style. We dumped our luggage and, still sweaty from the walk, took the opportunity to use the onsen inside the shukubo. Relaxing in the hot water was bliss after our long hike.

It was starting to get late and all the main "attractions" of town were closing, so we left investigating Koyasan itself for tomorrow. Dinner was brought to our room not long afterwards anyhow. Dinner was comprised of a very large number of small dishes, and was vegan in nature (since Shingon Buddhists may not kill). Much of the food was unrecognisable to me, however in general the dishes were pickled vegetables, tempura battered vegetables, and tofu based, with rice and green tea. Though very strange looking, most were delicious and complemented each other very well.

All kinds of vegan dishes... and 'green salt'

After dinner we attended a calligraphy class. I was instructed to write over a marked kanji sutra, writing also a wish, my name, and the date. So I focused and wrote as carefully as I could for the health of my family. After a short while I started to form rules in my head about how to avoid writing like a 3 year old. Push harder = thicker line. Not too fast, not too slow. down strokes need less ink that horizontals. After one and one half hours I had finished. It look passable, sort of.

Anyway that's it for today. Next, a nose around Koyasan and a trip to Osaka.